As my two and a half week journey in Guatemala nears its end, I find myself overwhelmed by the whole experience. At first I went through third-world shock. It's hard to get used to being so cautious in the city, or seeing so many guns and guards. Then, in Antigua and at the various bars and chain restaurants, I went through first-world overload. I almost felt disappointed that our consumer culture has spread so deeply into the society here. Then, in Santa Cruz de la Iguana, I felt the soul of the people. I felt the sad reality of life mixed with the simple joy of just being alive. This was more overwhelming than anything else I saw here. Now that I'm back in the city with just over a day left on my trip, I feel subtly content and tranquil.
Fittingly, the heart of my journey culminated with a large-scale cultural event, a wedding. I'd been looking forward to it all week, in fact, at times I think more so than some of the family members. The groom, Cesar (Toto) is the middle brother in the Alvarado family, and the bride, Vanessa, was his 5-year girlfriend from college. The religious ceremony was held in a church in the central square in Antigua. The church itself attracts many tourists and even vendors, and naturally it's open to the public.
Built in a traditional Spanish colonial style, it wasn't as ornate or gaudy as I would have expected. That being said, it was quite beautifully decorated and had an incredibly tall altar that was draped with gold plating and white linen covers. There was a 3-piece classical ensemble playing "Raindrop Prelude", "Ave Maria", and other various romantic classical pieces. What is it about a church, a violin, and a woman's melodic voice that seems to put everyone in a gleeful trance?
There were a few minor variations on the traditional American Catholic wedding, but mostly it was the same. After about an hour of ceremony and some picture taking it was off to the party. The party was held just outside of downtown Antigua at a beautiful hacienda overlooking, of course, a volcano. Volcanoes here are like bad drivers in Boston, you see one every 5 minutes.
The party went smoothly. There was lots of dancing, eating, drinking, and social mingling. Unfortunately not a lot of single women, but that's commonplace here. You normally wouldn't go to a wedding without a date. I did get to dance a lot, however. One of my favorite things about women here is that they love to dance. In fact, more so than that, it's in their blood. The men are a bit more shy to get on the floor, which makes my job infinitely easier.
The party wound down at around 7pm. We got there at noon. Only the immediate family, myself, and one or two family friends stuck around that long. Cepi was "that guy" at the wedding. Every good party needs one. It's amazing what a few bottles of scotch will do to your equilibrium and verbal coordination. We weren't too much better, but it was funnier to watch him. It's all for the better anyways. He crashed at the hotel after the party. We went out on the town and blew money on drinks for Mucas (townie girls), who in the end, wanted nothing to do with us. Alejandro and I salvaged the whole experience with a few tacos and a laugh.
So, in the words of Jim Morrison, "this is the end, my friends". I really had a good trip, and I'd do it again any day of the week. I saw the modern culture of the capital city. I saw the slums, and the large gap between rich and poor. I felt the overwhelming power of natural beauty beset by dire poverty. I got a sunburn, ate some great food, stuck out like a sore thumb, and was usually the center of attention (which I love) wherever we went.
More importantly, however, I was with good friends and their family. I was allowed the opportunity to live with some great people who showed me nothing but warmth, kindness, and hospitality. I wouldn't have been here if it wasn't for the Alvarado family, and for sure, I wouldn't have had as much fun.
Keep your heads to the grindstone backpackers. I've got a few domestic missions up my sleeve for the summer, and in the fall, Buenos Aires. Don't slack on Mr. Jackson, and keep travelling. I recommend Guatemala to anyone who wants to explore an ancient culture mixed with modern amenities, gorgeous people, great food, San Diego-style weather, and an amazing exchange rate.
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