Antigua is the Spanish word for antique, or old. Much like many European cities, Guatemala Antigua was the first settlement of Guatemala City. Apparently, after an earthquake, volcanic eruption, and massive flooding, the city was evacuated and most of the population moved to what now is the current Guatemala City. Today, the city has been re-built in its original style, with many of the old buildings still in tact and usable. It's also widely regarded as the most popular tourist location in the country. This is immediately apparent when you get there, and whether good or bad, it brings a decent ammount of money into the local economy.
Nestled in the neighboring valley from the capital, it's about a 40 minute drive from downtown, and boy what a drive. Like most things here, leaving the city by car can be risky business. Of course, you're recommended to drive during daylight hours, not to stop unless you have to, and pray to God you don't break down or get pulled over.
Our trip began in the early afternoon, just after switching the Range Rover for Cepi's stepmother's Hyundai station wagon. The Range needed service, but more importantly it made us less of a target on the highway. I even got my first experience with third-world driving. Let me tell you, it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Sure, your doors and windows must be locked at all times. Sure, you could get carjacked at a stoplight, or even worse, get stopped by the police. Honestly, it was kind of like driving in Boston.
The drive to Antigua was a mess. The winding two-lane highway was packed with cars and old red busses packed with people, spewing thick plumes of black smoke into the air. We saw at least 10 accidents, including one serious multi-lane crash. There were police and military officers everywhere, and as always, everyone seemed to be armed with either M-16s or single-barreled shot guns. It was hard to ignore the poverty alongside the road. Billboards turned into rudimentary houses, then back to billboards, and finally a lushly forrested valley. Being in the countryside was a welcome relief from the city, and the air was cool and clean. For the first time in 5 days it was safe for me to roll down the windows and let the fresh air and sun graze my arms and face. I can't even describe how good this felt.
Our first stop in Antigua was a luxury hotel called Casa Santo Domingo. According to Cepi this was a must see. He said the hotel's claim to fame was that Harrison Ford once stayed there, but for me, the interior was reason enough to go. Believe me when I tell you that after my mere 25 years on this earth, this was the most beautiful and breathtaking building I've ever been in. And that should mean a lot, considering I've been to the Sisteen Chapel. Most of the inside of the hotel had covered open-air walkways rather than the typical hotel hallway. The architecture was 18th century Spanish, and the spaces between the walkways and walls were filled with exotic plants, hand-carved stone benches, fountains, and parrots. The covered parts of the walkways were lit by candles and lined with religious statues of what I assumed were saints.
After a brief photo session and a lot of "oohs and aahhs" Cepi and I did what we do best.We found the bar, grabbed a Gallo, and tried to make eyes at a young Puerto Rican girl vacationing with her parents. Her dad cought us staring, so we thought it was a good idea to make our exit. The next few hours were pretty much the same as the first. Grab a beer, look at girls, eat some tacos, look at girls, grab another beer, and take pictures of everything that looked old and authentic.
This city was full of Gringos, tourist-themed stores, ATMs, bars, and police. For the first time on my trip to Guatemala it was safe to walk the streets. My feeling on Antigua were mixed, however. On one hand, you have the beauty of Spanish and Mayan cultures mixed together in a close-knit, well maintained community. You're surrounded by antiquity, draped with dark green trees, ominous mountains, and an enormous volcano. On the other hand, I felt like I was in the center of Rome again. English was as common to hear as Spanish. Every bar had specials geared towards Americans and Europeans. Youth hostels and hotels were on almost every street. Vendors approached you speaking your language rather than theirs.
It's not as if all this is a bad thing. I've been a part of the same culture in Europe. I love the fact that it's safe for tourists. I love the accomodation of being able to speak my native language. The problem is that it lacks reality. Antigua appears to be an elaborate production. The poverty of this country is kind of swept under the rug there. You lack the visible signs of inequity and danger that you see in the capital city. Let me clarify this. I'm not a proponent of danger, poverty, polution, and degradation. I do think, however, that in order to understand or respect a culture you need to see and feel how they really live. In Guatemala, most people's reality includes most of the aforementioned problems. They live with it, in it, or around it, and it's impossible to ignore.
Our day ended much as it started, with a Gallo and a great meal. I'm addicted to the hot sauces here, and I plan on flying back with about ten different bottles for me and my Gringo buddies back in Boston. With our bellies full and a little bit of a sunburn, we drove home. Tomorrow we're going to Lago Atitlan, and Saturday we're off to El Salvador. Remember my fellow backpackers and packerettes, always have fun when you travel, but respect the realities of your surroundings. Appreciating the life you live is tantamount to understanding the lives of others. Adios 'til next time.
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